'High On The Hog' Review: How African American Cuisine Transformed America
Netflix’s High On The Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America is an educational quartet based on the book of the same name by Jessica B.Harris. Hosted by chef/writer Stephen Satterfield, the docuseries takes us on a journey from the West African country of Benin to the Lonestar sands of Texas. Directed by Roger Ross Williams and created with a predominately Black creative team, High On The Hog is not an instructional cooking show but rather acts to illuminate the truth behind the origins of what we call American cuisine.
Each hour long episode introduces a new instructor for our guide. We vicariously walk through the Benin marketplace with Jessica B Harris, take a bite of the big apple with Omar Tate, try South Carolina’s Gullah Geechee with BJ Dennis, and learn about the historical contributions enslaved people brought to the country with Michael Twitty. We learn why certain foods were brought to America and how they have overcome their divisive history. Some of those foods are okra, yams -- not to be confused with sweet potatoes -- black-eyed peas and golden rice. Satterfield's passion for the craft is more than noticable and he manages to ask a few poignant questions furthering the journey. However, his lack of experience definitely shows. There are points throughout the program where he seems unsure of what to do or how to react in certain scenarios. With that being said, and this being his first hosting experience in front of the camera, it is a fine jumping off point. Hopefully he will be able to learn to take a little more risk in regard to the queries he poses and not be afraid to speak his honest opinion.
From a cinematographic stand point, Jerry Henry utilizes many different shots such as overhead drone shots, steady cam and wide shots but always seems to return to close up shaky cam. The latter is a technique used to evoke a sense of realism. The audience is made aware that it is a film however that effect does not separate us from the series but draws us in further. We can taste the beautifully plated art, smell the melding of different ingredients and feel the friendship and stewardship along the way. High On The Hog follows a remedy that all docuseries find themselves falling into and yet it works. The interviews are intermingled with excursions allowing Satterfield to form a connection with the interviewees.
It is evident that music was vital in the creation of this series. Show creators Karis Jagger and Fabienne Toback stress how important music is in African American history and that shines through. In each episode we have the Gullah Geechee RIng Shouters, the enchanting melodies of the chamber orchestra, the upbeat battle cry of the University of Teaxs’s band and modern incarnations of pre-colonial songs. Even the chirping of crickets, humming of tree frogs, crackling of wood underneath a flame and charring of meat can be heard.
After finishing the show, people are reminded of the contributions African Americans and Blacks have had on the American kitchen. It is important to learn from James Hemmings and Hercules, the enslaved cooks of Thomas Jefferson and George Washington. Hemmings is credited for the creation of a dish so commonly feasted upon in American households known as Mac and Cheese. The best way to wrap up this article is a quote from Satterfield at the end of the first episode, “(Those forced into slavery) brought with them their resilience and courage and all the way across the ocean in the place I call home their skill and innovation would transform American cuisine.”
