Binge or Cringe: 'From Scratch' strays from the recipe with its bittersweet take on romance worth tasting
Meet Amy and Lino
Over time, the ‘American in Tuscany’ has carved out a niche as its own sub-genre in popular media— the Under the Tuscan Sun effect brought on by Frances Mayes’ 1996 novel and the subsequent 2003 film adaptation of the same name. Netflix's dramatic limited series From Scratch, which debuted in late October, is the latest take on this narrative fixation. While the series does at times pander to convention, it finds its charm and substance in its nuanced and organic exploration of cultural identity. Notably, the series is also aided by breathtaking Sicilian backdrops and the tactful performances from key members of the cast.
From Scratch finds its footing by taking a familiar narrative framework— an American protagonist abroad falls in love with an impossibly perfect partner— and reworks it by weaving a modern sensibility into the story in a unique and intelligent way. The series chronicles the romance between Amy Wheeler (Zoe Saldana), a Black American art student from East Texas, and Lino Ortolano (Eugenio Mastrandrea), an Italian chef from Sicily working in Florence. Through the depiction of Amy and Lino’s love story, the series makes a pointed effort to explore both the harmony and the discord built into a relationship that involves two vastly different cultural backgrounds. In doing so, the writing tackles uncomfortable (and at times cringe-worthy) manifestations of cultural bias with a smart and fresh approach.
For example, in the early days of Amy and Lino’s romance, the couple attends a Thanksgiving dinner with Amy’s family in Los Angeles. Her relatives seize the opportunity to interrogate Lino about his past and eventually Lino confesses his life choices have disappointed his traditionalist father. Amy’s mother Lynn (Kellita Smith) asks if “having a Black girlfriend” is another contributing factor to his father’s disapproval. For context, Lynn previously expressed her desire for Amy and her sister to marry Black men (“Is it so wrong to want brown grand babies?''), making it clear to Lino he’s not her ideal choice for a son-in-law. But Lino subverts her insinuation by responding, “American, Black, not Catholic. Pick one.” This interaction alone embodies the layered cultural representation that the writing of the series achieves.
In part, From Scratch delivers a degree of authenticity that couldn’t have been achieved if not for the influence of its co-creator, Tembi Locke. Locke, better known for her work as an actress, and her sister, screenwriter and producer Attica Locke, developed the series from the former’s memoir, From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily and Finding Home. The show, in large part, draws from Loche’s own life. The series may be fictionalized, but the story benefits immensely from the real-life details scattered throughout it. Details like the comfortable bilingualism of the script, the subtle nods to the disparity between Italian and American society, and even the complex emotional experience that is grieving a lost loved one, and even.
Was It Binge or Cringe?
From Scratch is worth the watch. If not for the influence of the Locke sisters and the executive oversight of experienced producers like Saldana and Reese Witherspoon (who is credited as executive producer on the first episode), the series could have run the risk of becoming Hallmark Channel fare. There are moments throughout, especially towards the beginning, that walk the line between sweetly tender and flat-out sappy. Similarly, there are characters who come across almost as caricatures of themselves before becoming more redeemable down the line (sticking with it is worth the wait). The narrative strikes a bittersweet tone, yet despite its tragic elements and its handling of serious topics, it never quite achieves shedding its sugar-coated, feel-good veneer. Okay, there’s the occasional slip into sappiness, you’ll find yourself charmed by a touching romance tale rife with thoughtful cultural details and unexpected zingers.
A major factor grounding From Scratch is the performance given by Zoe Saldana as Amy, a Georgetown Law student taking a hiatus from her education to study painting in Florence. Her character starts out as the ingénue but in a very modern sense of the label: She’s effervescent, beautiful, and sweetly innocent while remaining self-possessed and observant. She’s not naive, but she is certainly a hopeful romantic, sometimes to a fault, who looks for the best in people and the world. As the story progresses, we see her romanticism challenged by changing circumstances and the hardships of life (it can’t all be sunny, romantic, and Tuscan). While Amy’s optimistic worldview certainly falters on occasion, it ultimately becomes her strength and stay, although her devoted family also deserves that accolade. Frankly, a different actress may not have been able to grasp the full scope of Amy’s emotional experience as gracefully and successfully as Saldana. That’s even more true given the inconsistent dimensionality of the script. Luckily for us, Saldana and her impressive acting chops bring a certain depth to the role that allows for the character’s vulnerability and humanity to come to the surface and break our hearts.
Saldana leads the cast along with Italian newcomer Eugenio Mastrandrea who plays Lino. While Mastrandrea delivers a heartfelt performance as the dreamy Italian chef who leaves his home for the woman he loves, it does not quite measure up to that of Saldana. Still, Mastrandrea’s depiction compliments Saldana’s because he allows her to take center stage while tactfully letting her play off of his brooding resolve.
Amy’s relationships with her family members and the ways in which those dynamics play out also help to elevate the series. Keith David plays Amy’s proud Texan father, Hershel, who visits her in the first episode while she’s studying in Florence. In that first episode, Hershel comes off as a stereotypical gruff Southern father: he can’t understand why his daughter left law school to study art, chastises her romantic ideals, and chaffs at the idea of Amy dating anyone other than a professional. Overtime, however, the audience understands that he’s just as caring as he is protective, progress demonstrated through his eventual acceptance and befriending of Lino.
Danielle Deadwyler also offers a powerhouse supporting performance as Amy’s school teacher sister, Zora. Deadwyler’s portrayal is the perfect mixture of tough and loving, allowing Zora to exist as the complementary firm-but-kind realist to Saldana’s doe-eyed optimist. Not only is Zora the first in Amy’s family to accept Lino, she’s also the first to call out her sister when Amy loses sight of her hope.
Who Will Like It?
From Scratch uses cultural mediation to facilitate familial reconciliation by representing Amy and Lino’s relationship as one built on a mutual appreciation of each other's cultures. If you have an interest in a sophisticated take on international romance (tears, laughs, and drama included), this is the series to watch.
Through their shared effort to understand, and ultimately appreciate, what their differing perspectives bring to the table, Amy and Lino overcome seemingly insurmountable barriers to reach a shared understanding of how their relationship can work despite the factors working against them. Eventually, that cultural mediation expands to include both Amy’s American family and Lino’s Sicilian family. At times awkward and uncomfortable, clumsy interactions between disparate cultures are what ultimately make From Scratch a show worth watching.
The cultural exploration and eventual appreciation achieved by the show are perhaps best summed up by two specific scenes. In the premiere episode “First Tastes,” Lino cooks for Amy and makes her traditional Italian polenta. In the next episode, Amy returns the favor and makes a homesick Lino a bowl of grits with butter. A suspicious looking Lino tastes the Southern favorite and quickly his distrust turns to delight, “this is polenta” he says enthusiastically in Italian. Amy smiles, “Polenta in Italy. In Texas we call ‘em grits,” she explains. “You see, it works in both places. Like we do.”
From Scratch is available to stream Netflix and consists of eight hour long episodes. Additional cast members include Judith Scott, Lucia Sardo, Paride Benassai, Roberta Rigano, and Isla Colbert.
